Wire and Metal Coils for Jewelry-Making

Wire-wrapping and chainmaille are common uses for jewelry-making wire—but not the only options. Wire coils are a useful shape for jewelry and accessory designers and can be adapted to a range of uses. Jewelry makers who are interested in using coiled wire in their design lines can get an overview of two techniques in the "Forming Wire Coils" video with metalsmith Sandra Lupo. Then get some design tips for using coils from Sandra in her follow-up video "Designing with Wire Coils."

Here are popular tools for creating coiled wire beads and findings:

• Artistic Wire® Coiling Gizmo®
  This popular product line lets designers create coiled beads and findings out of malleable jewelry-making wire. Sometimes called “a wireworker's greatest gadget,” the Coiling Gizmo is available in three versions—Econo Winder, Deluxe Econo Winder and Professional Deluxe—with each version suitable for different levels of use.
• The Econo Winder has two diameters of crank rods for lightweight materials and occasional use. Great for creating coiled wire tube beads in soft metals (like color-coated copper and anodized aluminum) and higher gauges (22 and finer).
• The Deluxe Econo Winder has five diameters of crank rods for midweight materials and more frequent use. Here’s how to use the Coiling Gizmo Deluxe Econo Winder. Fantastic for forming wire coils used as decorative and low-impact structural elements.
• The Professional Deluxe has five diameters of crank rods for heavyweight materials and professional levels of use. Here’s how to use the Professional Deluxe Coiling Gizmo. Ideal for coils that are serving as structural elements—such as S-clasps, coil ends and bails—in harder metals (like brass and stainless steel) and lower (thicker) wire gauges. It’s also strong enough to handle coiling beads made of wire coils.

• Wire Curling Mandrel Set
  When you want finer or tighter control, then coiling wire on these hand-held mandrels is the answer. Watch the silent animation and read the step-by-step instructions.
• Jump Ring Mandrels
  Notched and stepped hand-held mandrels mean forming round jump rings is a breeze. Two size ranges—1.5mm / 2mm / 3mm / 4mm / 5mm and 6mm / 7mm / 8mm / 9mm / 10mm—offer jewelry makers the range they need. Watch the video with Sandra Lupo and read the step-by-step instructions.
• Rotating Jump Ring Makers
  Together, these two tools offer a range of jump ring size options with the 4-8mm jump ring maker and the 10-16mm 4-8mm jump ring maker. Ideal for the artist who wants to make every part of their design. Watch the silent animation and read the step-by-step instructions.
• EUROTOOL® Coil Cutting Pliers
  Turn wire coils into jump rings using these pliers and a jeweler’s saw. Watch the silent animation and read the step-by-step instructions.
• Artistic Wire® CONETASTIC™ Mandrel
• Create three diameters of coiled wire cone shapes using this tool and the mandrel ends included with it. Read the step-by-step instructions.
• Pick up the inverted cone mandrel ends to expand your design opportunities. Read the step-by-step instructions for using the inverted cone ends here.
• Then branch out into hourglass-shaped coiled wire shapes using two-piece hourglass mandrel ends. Read the step-by-step instructions for using the hourglass mandrels.

As with other wire-working tools, the wire material, hardness and gauge determine what tools are best to use. Copper and aluminum wire is soft, so thicker gauges in these materials can be used without damaging your tools. Brass is a stiffer, harder wire compared to copper and aluminum, so jewelry makers might need to choose a finer gauge in brass than they would in copper. Stainless steel is even less malleable. So choose metals and tools that suit each other!