By Jean Campbell and Tammy Honaman, Exclusively for Fire Mountain Gems and Beads®
Crimps may be small in size, but they are amazing little titans of the jewelry-making world. They are THE finding to keep your beading wire-strung projects intact, the "glue" that keeps a design together and can even be counted on to add flash to that design. The term "crimping" means to join two or more pieces of metal or other material by deforming one or both to hold the other. This bend or deformity is known as the "crimp."
Discover the history of crimps, the difference between crimp tubes and crimp beads, how to crimp like a pro and how to use crimp covers in this jewelry-maker's crimp guide. Find FREE video tutorials to hone your crimping technique and handy reference charts for choosing the correct crimp sizes for any project.
One hundred years ago, attaching stringing material to a clasp for even a simple necklace or bracelet was involved and time consuming. First, you had to string a short, coiled wire called bullion (or gimp or French wire) so the thread wouldn't wear against the metal. Then you'd pass through the clasp, back down into the beads, tie a knot, pass through a few more beads, tie a knot, and on and on and on.
People still make jewelry that way, but now there's another option: crimp beads or crimp tubes on beading wire, Accu-Guard™ wire protectors and crimp covers. The advance of this technique has made it possible for artists everywhere to easily create their own professionally finished jewelry for long-lasting wear.
The type of crimp beads originally used had a serrated hole that grabbed onto the wire when squeezed with chain-nose pliers. The wire primarily used, Tigertail™, was strong and durable, but fairly stiff and prone to kinking. This scenario was standard until the early 1990s, with the development of Accu-Flex®, Soft-Flex® and other beading wire brands. The different wire brands showcase a range of colors, flexibilities, thicknesses and strand counts that, together, have increased jewelry design options incredibly.
As beading wire technology changed, crimps have, too, from a little round piece of metal you "crush flat" to secure inflexible beading wire to an array of sizes, shapes, metals and finishes. The types of crimps available have also expanded. Jewelry makers now can choose between crimp beads, crimp tubes, reusable crimps (such as Screw-Tite Crimps™), multi-strand crimps, crimps with built-in loops and clasps, large cord crimps and more.
When deciding which type and size of crimp beads or tubes to use, it's important that you know the wire thickness you'll be using for your piece. You'll also need to have a general idea of your design. For instance, if you're making a two-strand design and the two strands will eventually be secured by the same crimp, the crimp will need to be wide enough, not only to take the first two strands, but also to accommodate the two strands when they pass through the clasp again—that’s four wires total. Make sure you’re using the proper size with this FREE chart for finding the right size crimp beads based on the number of strands and diameter of beading wire used.
Crimp tubes are measured length by outside diameter (OD), i.e. 3x2mm means 3mm long by 2mm across. You will also see the inside diameter (ID) measurement noted, which indicates the inside space of the crimp and how much room there is for your stringing material. In most cases, a larger ID indicates a larger opening, where the smaller the opening indicates a thicker crimp wall and a stronger crimp hold, i.e. 2x2mm sterling silver crimp with a 1mm ID has a thicker wall than a 2x2mm crimp with a 1.3mm ID. You want your crimp to succeed, so choose the proper size with the thickest metal possible.
Generally speaking, a 1mm OD crimp tube of any length is great for use with finer strands of beading wire (.007 to .014), 2mm OD crimps are ideal for .019 and the 3mm OD crimps for the heavier .024 beading wire. This general rule is based on passing the beading wire through the crimp bead two times.
Wire:
.014" Accu-Flex beading wire
x (2) passes through a crimp
.028" needed inside diameter
This scenario allows enough room for the crimp to compress over and between the wires captured inside and hold them in place, rather than filling the crimp to a point where one length of wire can slip against the other and subsequently out of the crimp.
Here is a chart that includes inside diameters of crimp tubes for easy reference.
Inside opening = inside diameter (ID)
1 inch = 25.4mm
1mm = .0394 inches
Crimp Tubes/Crimp Beads | ||
Size (mm) | Material | Inside Diameter (mm) |
1x1 | Sterling Silver | 0.76 |
2x1 | Gold-Filled | 1.5 |
Sterling Silver | 0.76 1 1.1 | |
2x1.5 | Gold-Filled | 1.3 |
Sterling Silver | 1.3 | |
2.5x1.5 | Copper-Plated | 1.2 (corrugated) |
Gunmetal-Plated | 1.2 (corrugated) | |
2x2 | Gold-Filled | 1.1 |
Copper | 1.2 | |
Sterling Silver | 1.2 1.3 1.4 | |
2.5x2 | Gold-Filled | 1.5 |
Silver-Plated | 1.5 | |
Black-Plated | 1.5 | |
3x1.5 | Sterling Silver | 1.1 |
3x2 | Gold-Plated | 1.4 |
Silver-Plated | 1.4 | |
Gold-Filled | 1 (twisted) | |
Sterling Silver | 1 1 (twisted) 1.3 | |
3x3 | Sterling Silver | 2.5 |
4x2.5 | Sterling Silver | 1 |
Brass | 1 | |
Copper-Plated | 1 | |
4x4 | Sterling Silver | 3.5 |
5x3 | Sterling Silver | 1.3 1.7 |
5.5x2.5 | Copper-Plated | 2 |
5.5x3 | Sterling Silver | 1.5 |
6x3 | Copper | 2.25 |
Sterling Silver | 2.5 | |
6x4 | Sterling Silver | 2.5 |
6.5x6 | Brass | 4 |
13x2 | Sterling Silver | 1.4 |
Crimp beads resemble a hollow round bead; crimp tubes are sections of tubing (typically seamless). Each is available in a variety of metals, finishes, sizes and styles. Many artists, especially those just starting to work with crimps and beading wire, secure crimp beads and crimp tubes by flattening them with a pair of flat or chain-nose pliers. The flattened crimp bead grips the wire for a secure finish. You want to avoid squeezing the crimp bead too hard, as it can break or be weakened and can also bite into the jewelry wire itself, causing it to break or fray.
When adding clasps to beading wire, crimps are usually strung on the wire and the wire is passed through a wire protector or French wire. The loop or soldered jump ring of the clasp (green in the image below) is slid inside the loop of the wire protector, then the beading wire is strung back through the crimp and drawn taut.
Crimping pliers are then used to crimp the bead or tube to secure it. These pliers are expressly designed for use with crimp beads, utilizing a 2-step process for creating a very secure finish to your design.
The crimping pliers' rear station (E) puts a crimp in the crimp tube, giving it a loose "U" or crescent moon shape. Then the crimp is moved to the front station (F), which folds the crimped tube in half, gripping the jewelry wire and rounding the crimp into a sphere. After you round the crimp tube you can go around the crimp several more times to mold it into the perfect shape and ensure it is snugly attached to the jewelry-making wire. These techniques do not require a lot of force, as it doesn't take much strength to compress a crimp bead or tube. This applies even more to crimps made of sterling silver or natural copper.
Learn more about crimp tubes in Fire Mountain Gems and Beads' FREE article on ''Crimp Tubes''. View a FREE video tutorial on ''How To Crimp a Crimp Bead/Crimp Tube'' to practice this essential jewelry-making technique.
Screw-Tite Crimps offer another secure way to connect your beading wire to a finding, such as a clasp. What makes this style different from other crimps is that it is secured in place with a set screw. Not only is this crimp secure, it can also be removed at any time. This feature allows you to change your beaded design or clasp, should you decide you want a different look. Screw-Tite Crimps require the Screw-Tite Crimps™ screwdriver set to use. View Fire Mountain Gems and Beads' FREE video tutorial on ''Crimping with Screw-Tite Crimps™''.
Accu-Guard™ wire protectors and crimp covers work with crimp beads and crimp tubes to create a durable and professional-looking finish to jewelry designs strung on Accu-Flex and other beading wires. Accu-Guard wire protectors are like bullion (French wire), but in a pre-curved horseshoe shape that keeps metal findings from wearing through the protective coating on your beading wire. To see how to use these findings, view the FREE video on ''Using Accu-Guard™ Wire Protectors''.
The jewelry-maker's secret to a seamless finish on strung designs using crimp beads and crimp tubes? Crimp covers!
Crimp covers are available in a range of metals, finishes and textures. Designers can choose from smooth 14Kt gold-filled and antique silver-plated brass, to glossy copper and corrugated stainless steel, to stardust gunmetal-plated brass and much more—whatever suits the design. As for picking the proper size, a good guideline is that 3mm crimp covers work well at covering most 1x1mm-2x3mm crimps. However, if your design has 4mm metal beads in it then you may prefer to use 4mm crimp covers. View a FREE video tutorial on ''Using Crimp Covers'' for a professional-looking finish.
Small in size, yet mighty in effect, crimp beads and tubes are the most secure finish for jewelry designs strung on beading wires like Accu-Flex, Acculon®, Tigertail™ and more. Be sure to view the range of FREE how-to video tutorials about using these tiny jewelry-making essentials, then begin your creative adventure into crimping.
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