Ask the Experts Metalsmithing Q&A

 I'm creating a silver pendant for a flat back cabochon and have soldered on a bezel setting to a backplate. How do I set decorative faceted gems around it? I've used flat back smooth round cabochons with bezel cups soldered on, but I want to use 4mm faceted gemstones that have a point at the back. Do I put something in the bezel cup or make a hole in the backplate? Or something else?

Pointed back gems require a special setting to cradle the point and either encase the top edge or hold it steady with prongs. You would either need to construct one out of fine metal sheet, sculpt and cast one using a method like lost wax casting, or make one out of metal clay by sculpting it with clay tools and impressing the stone into the clay. It is important to account for shrinkage during firing of metal clay. Once you have created a setting, you can drop a small amount of epoxy, like Devcon 5 minute, in the depression and then on the stone. You’ll want to do all your metal work prior to setting any of the stones, including your cabochon focal. Alternatively, you could purchase Bezellite and solder them onto your piece, but I am not sure that it would be cost effective or give you the end result you desire.

- Patti